I'm looking seriously at a project that was covered in Ceconite and
finished with the AFS /Stewart system. The topcoat was brushed on,
with less-than-lovely results. (I feel compelled to name the plane
"The Brush Stroke") It was signed off as airworthy, but I'm wondering
whether re-finishing (as opposed to re-covering) is an option. I
don't expect the stuff can be sanded smooth for a sprayed-on topcoat?

In article
>,
CB > wrote:

> I'm looking seriously at a project that was covered in Ceconite and
> finished with the AFS /Stewart system. The topcoat was brushed on,
> with less-than-lovely results. (I feel compelled to name the plane
> "The Brush Stroke") It was signed off as airworthy, but I'm wondering
> whether re-finishing (as opposed to re-covering) is an option. I
> don't expect the stuff can be sanded smooth for a sprayed-on topcoat?

Can you make a test article out of leftover materials?

Otherwise, I would suggest that you select a small area and use #400 or
#600 grit wet/dry, with LOTS of water.

Is this the stuff done with latex?

--
Remove _'s from email address to talk to me.

On Tue, 14 Oct 2008 04:38:47 -0400, Orval Fairbairn
> wrote:

>In article
>,
> CB > wrote:
>
>> I'm looking seriously at a project that was covered in Ceconite and
>> finished with the AFS /Stewart system. The topcoat was brushed on,
>> with less-than-lovely results. (I feel compelled to name the plane
>> "The Brush Stroke") It was signed off as airworthy, but I'm wondering
>> whether re-finishing (as opposed to re-covering) is an option. I
>> don't expect the stuff can be sanded smooth for a sprayed-on topcoat?
>
>Can you make a test article out of leftover materials?
>
>Otherwise, I would suggest that you select a small area and use #400 or
>#600 grit wet/dry, with LOTS of water.
>
>Is this the stuff done with latex?

use a random orbital sander. the sanding finish for a 600 grade disk
will look like it was done with a 1200 grade disk.
the random orbital will usually not rub through high spots on ribs.
use plenty of water (swabbed on with a sponge works) and work
patiently and with some care and you should see excellent results.

polyfiber finishes can be sanded smooth so I dont see why yours cant.

ymmv
Stealth Pilot

Thanks for the advice. Hey - if nothing else it's an excuse to get an
orbital sander! :-)

On Oct 14, 10:46*am, Stealth Pilot >
wrote:
> On Tue, 14 Oct 2008 04:38:47 -0400, Orval Fairbairn
>
>
> > wrote:
> >In article
> >,
> > CB > wrote:
>
> >> I'm looking seriously at a project that was covered in Ceconite and
> >> finished with the AFS /Stewart system. *The topcoat was brushed on,
> >> with less-than-lovely results. *(I feel compelled to name the plane
> >> "The Brush Stroke") *It was signed off as airworthy, but I'm wondering
> >> whether re-finishing (as opposed to re-covering) is an option. *I
> >> don't expect the stuff can be sanded smooth for a sprayed-on topcoat?
>
> >Can you make a test article out of leftover materials?
>
> >Otherwise, I would suggest that you select a small area and use #400 or
> >#600 grit wet/dry, with LOTS of water.
>
> >Is this the stuff done with latex?
>
> use a random orbital sander. the sanding finish for a 600 grade disk
> will look like it was done with a 1200 grade disk.
> the random orbital will usually not rub through high spots on ribs.
> use plenty of water (swabbed on with a sponge works) and work
> patiently and with some care and you should see excellent results.
>
> polyfiber finishes can be sanded smooth so I dont see why yours cant.
>
> ymmv
> Stealth Pilot- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I think we would all agree a proper sprayed on surface is prefereble
to brushed on.

There are times and places where spray is inpractical; primarily a
place to do it; compressor noise primarily and overspray in the
neighborhood.

If I'm understanding correctly, you are saying that one can brush on,
but be prepared for some patient sanding; am I correct? - Mike





On Tue, 14 Oct 2008 22:46:19 +0800, Stealth Pilot
> wrote:

>On Tue, 14 Oct 2008 04:38:47 -0400, Orval Fairbairn
> wrote:
>
>>In article
>,
>> CB > wrote:
>>
>>> I'm looking seriously at a project that was covered in Ceconite and
>>> finished with the AFS /Stewart system. The topcoat was brushed on,
>>> with less-than-lovely results. (I feel compelled to name the plane
>>> "The Brush Stroke") It was signed off as airworthy, but I'm wondering
>>> whether re-finishing (as opposed to re-covering) is an option. I
>>> don't expect the stuff can be sanded smooth for a sprayed-on topcoat?
>>
>>Can you make a test article out of leftover materials?
>>
>>Otherwise, I would suggest that you select a small area and use #400 or
>>#600 grit wet/dry, with LOTS of water.
>>
>>Is this the stuff done with latex?
>
>use a random orbital sander. the sanding finish for a 600 grade disk
>will look like it was done with a 1200 grade disk.
>the random orbital will usually not rub through high spots on ribs.
>use plenty of water (swabbed on with a sponge works) and work
>patiently and with some care and you should see excellent results.
>
>polyfiber finishes can be sanded smooth so I dont see why yours cant.
>
>ymmv
>Stealth Pilot

"Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
...
>I think we would all agree a proper sprayed on surface is prefereble
> to brushed on.
>
> There are times and places where spray is inpractical; primarily a
> place to do it; compressor noise primarily and overspray in the
> neighborhood.
>
> If I'm understanding correctly, you are saying that one can brush on,
> but be prepared for some patient sanding; am I correct? - Mike
>
>

You can brush most any finish. The gloss of a painted surface depends on
the quality of the surface before the paint is applied.
When the paint begins to cure surface tension will level the surface.
To get a nice shiny reflective surface you need to get it locally level
to the order of the wavelength of light. For a brushed surface to
level this well takes a while. To give the surface tension time to
work use sufficient retarder in the mix to give it time to level out.

This is hard to do with dope and lacquers, even with a sprayer!
That is why they generally need to be rubbed out to scrape off the
high spots and level the surface. The do make a brushing lacquer
that was used a great deal is carriage work for the fine painted detail
finishs on the elegant Victorian carriages. You can still get
it. It is essentially lacquer with a retarder to slow the drying time
and give it time to flow out from the surface tension before it sets
up.

I have used that trick for touchup work on cars and airplanes for years.
Sometimes for fairly large areas, like hand sized or larger.

Highflyer
Highflight Aviation Services
Pinckneyville Airport ( PJY )